A Vancouver Sun Article

The Rustic Delights Of Savary Island

White sandy beaches, warm water and glorious sunsets make this place a piece of heaven

By Andrea Cox, For Canwest News ServiceSeptember 22, 2009


History has it that in 1792 Captain George Vancouver sailed his way north from Vancouver, through the Jervis Inlet and into the Strait of Georgia. It was here that he came upon one of the best-kept secrets on the Canadian West Coast: Savary Island. No one knows why he gave the island this mysterious name.
But what we do know is that he was enamoured with the island's beauty. He penned in his journal for June 1792 that he had sailed past an island lying in an east-west direction that had beauty such as we have seldom enjoyed.
Captain Vancouver isn't the only one who has raved about this little piece of heaven tucked away in the Gulf Island chain. A paradise in the Strait of Georgia, white sandy beaches, glorious sunsets, warm waters to rival those of the tropics, are some common comments from those who have been.
So, of course, on a recent vacation to Powell River, I simply had to find out what all the fuss was about. On a sunny summer morning, my longtime friend from college and I drove the 14 kilometres from Powell River to Lund to catch the water taxi to Savary.
It was the end of July and the West Coast was experiencing a heat wave. By 9 a.m., temperature was past 30 degrees.
"Come on, let's go," my friend called. "They're loading up the boat." We had our bikes and had to squeeze them onto the boat among all the blue plastic bins filled with supplies that the summer vacationers were transporting to the island. The island is rustic to say the least -- no grocery stores and no electricity.
On the boat, a cool breeze offered a welcome respite from the heat. Within 15 minutes we had traversed the six kilometres from Lund and were approaching Savary's wharf.
We rode our bikes down the wharf and came upon the island's main dirt road.
Here we were met with the simplicity of a time gone by. No chi-chi hotels, no bars on the beach, no restaurants. Just summer cabins.
Known for its diverse geology and ecology, Savary is essentially a crescent-shaped 7.5-kilometre long, one kilometre-wide migrating sandbar. The plant life is spectacular and ranges from dense growths of ferns to fields of wildflowers. Sweeping sand dunes and hiking trails wind through it all.
We headed west along the main dirt road toward Indian Point through stands of old-growth forest, but after four kilometres we had to turn back -- the mercury was soaring past 40 and we needed some beach time.
We headed east past the wharf toward South Beach, one of the most spectacular beaches on the island. On the south side of the island, the shoreline is wilder and more exposed to the winter storm winds than the north. We hiked up a hill, leaving our bikes at the top. Guarding the entry to the beach were tall sand cliffs.
The trek down was a bit tenuous, especially since I was wearing flip-flops. But the journey down was definitely worth it. Before us lay a vast expanse of exquisite white sand beach lapped by crystal-clear, calm blue waters.
Dotting the shoreline were about 12 shelters fashioned from bleached driftwood. Think stranded on a South Pacific Island. Definitely rustic, but they provided excellent shelter from the sun.
As we headed back toward the wharf to catch the water taxi back to Lund, we passed by the Savary Lodge, one of the oldest cabins on the island and also one of the island's only bed and breakfasts.
"Once you step foot on Savary, you have to keep coming back," says owner Jean Yuille. "I have been coming here for nearly 40 years and I'm still enthused about this place. It's the best place on Earth."
I must say that I have to agree.
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HOW TO GET THERE
From Lund: Lund Water Taxi operates year round. Cost is $10 per person one way, $2 per bike. 604-483-9741, www.lundwatertaxi.com
Parking is available in Lund across from the historic Lund hotel.
From Courtenay/Comox: Water Taxi by Marine eco Tours Pacific Pro dive & Surf Company. Book ahead (a day or two in advance is fine). Boat leaves from the Comox Marina just underneath the edge-water Pub. drop off and pick up on Savary is at the government Wharf. Children $40, adults $60 each way. www.scubashark.com,1-877-800-dIVe - Island Float Plane Service: From Courtenay airpark to Savary, www.island-air.cainfo@island-air.ca
WHERE TO EAT
Riggers Restaurant: located at the top of the hill west of the government Wharf.
The menu is casual, but well executed -- everything from nachos to salmon burgers.
Fully licensed and it has the only public toilet on the island.
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